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Phuket's
Vegetarian festival (or jia chai in local Hokkien
Chinese dialect) began in 1825, when the govenor of
Thalang, Praya Jerm, moved the island's principal
town from Ta Reua in Thalang District to Get-Hoe in
Kathu District, where were tin mines and Chinese miners.
Kathu was then still covered by jungle and fever was
rife. It happened that a traveling opera company (called
ngiu in Thai or pua-hee in Hokkien dialect) came from
China to perform for the miners
When the whole company grew sick from an unnamed malady,
they kept to a vegetarian diet to honor two of the emperor
gods, Kiew Ong Tai Teh and Yok Ong Sone Teh. The sickness
afflicting the opera troupe then disappeared. This greatly
interested the people of Kathu, who asked how it was
done. The answer came that ritual vegetarianism with
its attendant ceremonies had been the cause, with the
result that people embraced the faith enthusiastically.
Thus the festival began:starting the first evening of
the ninth lunar month, it continued until the ninth
evening; the aim was to bring good luck to individuals
as well as to the community. |
It
later happened that one familiar with the festival
volunteered to return to Kansai, in China, where he
invited the sacred Hiao Ho-le or Hiao lan (incense
smoke) and Lian Tui (name plaques), which have the
status of gods, to come stay in Kathu. He also brought
holy writings used in the ceremonies, returning to
Phuket on the seventh night of the ninth month. The
people, upon hearing of his arrival, went in procession
to Bang Niao Pier to bring him and his sacred cargo
back. This was the origin of the processions that
figure so greatly in the festival.
The afternoon before the festival begins, a great
pole at each temple is raised, called the Go Teng
pole, with which the gods are invited to descend.
At midnight the pole is hung with nine lanterns, signalizing
the opening of the fest. Two important gods are also
invited down at midnight to preside over ceremonies;
these are Yok Ong Hong Tae and Kiew Ong Tai Tae.
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Aside from this, there are other ceremonies throughout
the fest, notably: invocation of the gods Lam Tao,
who keeps track of the living, and Pak Tao, who keeps
track of the dead; processions of the gods' images;
and feats of the Ma Song-like bathing in hot oil,
bladed ladder climbing and fire-walking. The festival
ends with merit making ceremonies at each temple (sadoh
kroh) and the send-off of the gods on the last night
(when fireworks are at their most impressive).
Ma Song, or entranced horses, are devotees whom the
gods enter during the fest. They manifest supernatural
powers and perform self-tortures in order to shift
evil from individuals onto themselves, and to bring
the community good luck. Ma Song fall into two categories:
those who, having had an intimation of impending doom,
want to extend their lives; and people specially chosen
by the gods for their moral qualities.
Throughout the festival fireworks and drums are sounded,
especially during ceremonies. It is held that the
louder they are the better, because the noise drives
away evil spirits.
Participants in the fest keep to a strict vegetarian
diet for a varying number of days, usually no less
than three. This they do to make themselves strong
in mind and body; they refrain from all vice, eating
animal flesh, and killing animals. The festival thus
promotes good hygiene, brightness and inner peace.
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